Reptile husbandry
Bearded Dragon Husbandry: Getting the Non-Negotiables Right
Heat gradients, UVB output, enclosure size and diet by age — the four things that cause most bearded dragon illness when they are wrong.

Most illness is husbandry, not bad luck
Exotic veterinary practices report that the majority of reptile cases they see are consequences of the environment rather than infectious disease. For bearded dragons, that means metabolic bone disease from inadequate ultraviolet light or calcium, impaction and gut problems, respiratory infection from cold or damp conditions, and obesity or liver disease from an overly rich adult diet.
The reassuring implication is that most of it is preventable with equipment set up correctly at the start.
Space and the thermal gradient
An adult needs a minimum footprint of around 120 x 60 cm, with more always better, and the enclosure must offer a genuine temperature gradient so the animal can choose. Reptiles do not regulate temperature internally; they move between zones.
- Basking surface: approximately 38-42 °C for adults, slightly warmer for juveniles
- Cool end: approximately 22-26 °C during the day
- Night-time: a drop to around 18-21 °C is normal and beneficial
- Measure with a digital probe or infrared thermometer at the basking surface, never with a stick-on dial
- Control heat with a thermostat — an unregulated bulb is a burn risk
UVB is equipment, not decoration
Bearded dragons come from high-UV environments and cannot metabolise dietary calcium without ultraviolet B exposure. Use a linear T5 fluorescent tube spanning roughly two-thirds of the enclosure length rather than a compact coil, position it at the manufacturer's stated distance, and account for mesh, which blocks a substantial share of the output.
UVB output falls long before the tube stops emitting visible light. Replace it on the manufacturer's schedule, typically every nine to twelve months, and write the date on the tube.
Diet changes dramatically with age
Juveniles are largely insectivorous and need daily live food with vegetables always available. Adults reverse this: roughly 70-80% leafy greens and vegetables, with insects a few times a week. Continuing a juvenile feeding pattern into adulthood is a leading cause of obesity and fatty liver disease.
Dust insects with a calcium supplement according to your vet's or a reptile-experienced keeper's schedule, and gut-load feeder insects before offering them. Avoid wild-caught insects, which may carry pesticides or parasites.
Signs that need an exotics vet
Tremors, a soft or swollen jaw, difficulty lifting the body off the ground, open-mouth breathing with mucus, prolonged refusal of food outside of a recognised brumation period, or straining without passing faeces all warrant prompt assessment by a veterinarian experienced with reptiles — not a general small animal practice by default.
Frequently asked questions
- Can I use sand as a substrate?
- Loose particulate substrates are debated and carry an impaction risk, particularly with juveniles or animals housed too cool to digest properly. Many keepers use solid surfaces or a well-researched bioactive soil mix rather than fine calcium sand.
- Does my dragon need a companion?
- No. Bearded dragons are solitary and housing them together commonly causes competition for basking space, stress and injury.